Catch a wave without even setting foot in the water? Possible thanks to these 4 favorite books that will take you straight to the line up (well protected of course). Enough to wait between two sessions.
"In Waves" by AJ Dungo
"We have in common this obsession with riding the waves, this deep respect for the ocean and a broken heart": there are graphic novels that will move you and "In Waves" definitely falls into this category. In this book, the American illustrator tells two stories: that of surfing already through the figures of Duke Kanahamoku and Tom Blake, but above all that of his love story for Kristen, who he met when he was still a teenager and died of cancer. Impossible that this tribute and this ode to surfing leaves you indifferent.
"Barbarian Days" by William Finnegan.
While William Finnegan covered conflicts around the world for The New Yorker for many years, it is not this part of his life that is discussed in "Barbarian Days". Born in New York, raised between California and Hawaii, William Finnegan tells the story of the surfing addiction that has been eating away at him for nearly 50 years. A book that won the Pulitzer Prize for biography in 2016.
"Leaving everything" by Anaïs Vanel
Who hasn't dreamed of leaving work at the end of the day, putting his stuff in his car and driving away. Away. That's what Anaïs Vanel, a former Parisian publisher who moved to Hossegor to surf and write, did. In "Tout Quitter", she tells the story of this reconnection to herself, to nature, to life quite simply, in the manner of a newspaper. A book to devour, preferably while breathing in the sea spray.
And follow her on her Instagram account: since then, she has packed her bags again for Mexico!
"Let my people go surfing" by Yvon Chouinard
An entrepreneur like no other. In his autobiography, Yvon Chouinard, founder of Patagonia, tells how he managed to put his passion for extreme sports, environmental protection and his commitments at the heart of his company, without ever compromising. Yes, ethics and success sometimes go hand in hand. Yvon Chouinard is proof of this.
PS: if you're angry with English, this book is also available in the language of Molière under the title "Confessions of an entrepreneur... not like the others".