28/02/20

4 books to dive into the world of surfing

Taking a wave without even setting foot in the water ? It’s now possible thanks to these 4 favorite books that will take you straight to the line up (obviously well protected). Plus, they’re great to pass time in between two sessions.

“In Waves” by AJ Dungo

"We have in common this obsession with riding the waves, this deep respect for the ocean and the broken heart” : there are graphic novels that overwhelm you and “In Waves” definitely belongs to this category. In this book, the American illustrator tells two stories : that of surfing through the figures of Duke Kanahamoku and Tom Blake, but especially that of his love story with Kristen, met while he was still a teenager, who died of cancer. It is impossible that this tribute and ode to surfing will leave you indifferent.

“Barbarian Days” by William Finnegan

William Finnegan has covered conflicts around the world for many years for The New Yorker, but this isn’t the part of his life that is represented in "Barbarian Days". Born in New York, raised between California and Hawaii, William Finnegan recounts the addiction to surfing that he has suffered from for almost 50 years. This book received the Pulitzer Prize for Biography in 2016.

“Quit Everything” by Anaïs Vanel

Everyone has dreamt of quitting work at the end of the day, putting their stuff in their car and leaving. Going far. This is what Anaïs Vanel did; a former Parisian publisher who moved to Hossegor's side to surf and write. In "Quit Everything", she recounts like in a magazine this reconnection to herself, to nature, to life quite simply. A book to read preferably while breathing the sea spray.

And follow her on Instagram : since then, she has packed her bags again for Mexico !

“Let my people go surfing” by Yvon Chouinard

An entrepreneur like no other. In his autobiography, Yvon Chouinard - founder of Patagonia, tells how he managed to place his passion for extreme sports, environmental protection and his commitments at the heart of his company, without ever making compromises. Ethics and success sometimes go hand in hand. Yvon Chouinard is the living proof of that.

4 books to dive into the world of surfing

28/02/20

4 books to dive into the world of surfing

 4 books to dive into the world of surfing

Taking a wave without even setting foot in the water ? It’s now possible thanks to these 4 favorite books that will take you straight to the line up (obviously well protected). Plus, they’re great to pass time in between two sessions.

“In Waves” by AJ Dungo

"We have in common this obsession with riding the waves, this deep respect for the ocean and the broken heart” : there are graphic novels that overwhelm you and “In Waves” definitely belongs to this category. In this book, the American illustrator tells two stories : that of surfing through the figures of Duke Kanahamoku and Tom Blake, but especially that of his love story with Kristen, met while he was still a teenager, who died of cancer. It is impossible that this tribute and ode to surfing will leave you indifferent.

“Barbarian Days” by William Finnegan

William Finnegan has covered conflicts around the world for many years for The New Yorker, but this isn’t the part of his life that is represented in "Barbarian Days". Born in New York, raised between California and Hawaii, William Finnegan recounts the addiction to surfing that he has suffered from for almost 50 years. This book received the Pulitzer Prize for Biography in 2016.

“Quit Everything” by Anaïs Vanel

Everyone has dreamt of quitting work at the end of the day, putting their stuff in their car and leaving. Going far. This is what Anaïs Vanel did; a former Parisian publisher who moved to Hossegor's side to surf and write. In "Quit Everything", she recounts like in a magazine this reconnection to herself, to nature, to life quite simply. A book to read preferably while breathing the sea spray.

And follow her on Instagram : since then, she has packed her bags again for Mexico !

“Let my people go surfing” by Yvon Chouinard

An entrepreneur like no other. In his autobiography, Yvon Chouinard - founder of Patagonia, tells how he managed to place his passion for extreme sports, environmental protection and his commitments at the heart of his company, without ever making compromises. Ethics and success sometimes go hand in hand. Yvon Chouinard is the living proof of that.

4 books to dive into the world of surfing